A new Altair! A little temperamental.

Hello,
A few days ago I received my long-awaited kits, and yesterday I assembled the Altair.
I have to say that the quality of the kits is great. Just holding the bare boards is a pleasure, they're really professional and well done.
Anyway, I assembled the boards in about 4 hours (overall they were easier than the Kim) and I assembled the switches and LEDs in another hour.
The video out connector was broken, and the power connector was missing; but for now I just soldered two wires to where the connector would go, and use those.
Assembly was uneventful, and the silkscreening was so good that I didn't have to look at the instructions at all.
When it came to assemble the switches, at first I inserted the lower row of "single-throw" ones - they had to be really forced in their holes, to make them go all the way down to the board; and once pushed in, they wouldn't fall. Then I put in the front panel, screwed it in, and put just a little solder on only one pin of each switch. Then holding the panel upright, I would melt the solder on a switch one by one and fine-adjust its position by hand. Then I would solder the second pins of the switches, and then make a second pass with more solder on the first pins. Then I simply repeated for the "temporary" switches and for the upper row.
Then for the LEDs, I decided not to have them stick all the way out of the panel. Being a small kit, I thought the LEDs looked too "big" on the panel. So I decided to solder them so that only the "dome" of each LED would stick out.
To do so, I simply inserted all the LEDs in the board; then I screwed the front panel back in again, and made all the LEDs go into their holes; then I put all the upper switches to the "UP" position and the lower switches to the "down" position, and put the panel on the bench "face down", and it would stay put without toppling; then I took a bunch of photos - I chose the right amount to make the right height - and put them under the LEDs, between the LEDs and the bench, so that the LED heads would stick out for just about 3mm. Then I soldered them, and that was it.
When it came to turn it on for the first time, no magic smoke came out... Before inserting the chips I measured the voltages and they were OK. So I put the chips in and started the computer, which booted at first try.
But I think there's something weird with it, or at least, it behaves differently from what I've seen on a few youtube videos.
When I turn it on, with all switches down (except RUN which is in STOP position), I correctly see the two "banks" of LEDs lighting for a moment, and then the W0 LED lights for about 6 seconds, and after that M1 and MEMR light too and I can use the computer.
In some videos I saw, the LED that lights first is not W0 but INT, and it takes much less time before MEMR and M1 also go on and the computer is usable. Mine seems to have a sort of "slow boot".
Then, if I put RESET up, most of the LEDs light up, but they don't do so instantly, but a few at a time, over the course of a couple of seconds. Some lights sometimes stay off. And sometimes some of the lights "flicker" a bit, as if there was being some "action" there. It's not a cold solder joint because during "normal" operation the lights are rock solid.
And when I put RESET down again, then the computer behaves as if I just turned it on, with the W0 and then M1 and MEMR lights, only that W0 stays on for a longer time before M1 and MEMR also come up, sometimes even 13-15 seconds.
Also, is it normal that if AUX is up, then all the address and data LEDs flicker on for a moment everytime that I press EXAMINE or EXAMINE NEXT?
I tried toggling the test addition program, and it worked "some of the times" - i.e. with some input data. Using 1 and 2 as input data was OK, using 7 and 15 was not. But I can't be sure it wasn't user error, I have to experiment some more.
Does any of this make any sense to you?
Cristian
A few days ago I received my long-awaited kits, and yesterday I assembled the Altair.
I have to say that the quality of the kits is great. Just holding the bare boards is a pleasure, they're really professional and well done.
Anyway, I assembled the boards in about 4 hours (overall they were easier than the Kim) and I assembled the switches and LEDs in another hour.
The video out connector was broken, and the power connector was missing; but for now I just soldered two wires to where the connector would go, and use those.
Assembly was uneventful, and the silkscreening was so good that I didn't have to look at the instructions at all.
When it came to assemble the switches, at first I inserted the lower row of "single-throw" ones - they had to be really forced in their holes, to make them go all the way down to the board; and once pushed in, they wouldn't fall. Then I put in the front panel, screwed it in, and put just a little solder on only one pin of each switch. Then holding the panel upright, I would melt the solder on a switch one by one and fine-adjust its position by hand. Then I would solder the second pins of the switches, and then make a second pass with more solder on the first pins. Then I simply repeated for the "temporary" switches and for the upper row.
Then for the LEDs, I decided not to have them stick all the way out of the panel. Being a small kit, I thought the LEDs looked too "big" on the panel. So I decided to solder them so that only the "dome" of each LED would stick out.
To do so, I simply inserted all the LEDs in the board; then I screwed the front panel back in again, and made all the LEDs go into their holes; then I put all the upper switches to the "UP" position and the lower switches to the "down" position, and put the panel on the bench "face down", and it would stay put without toppling; then I took a bunch of photos - I chose the right amount to make the right height - and put them under the LEDs, between the LEDs and the bench, so that the LED heads would stick out for just about 3mm. Then I soldered them, and that was it.
When it came to turn it on for the first time, no magic smoke came out... Before inserting the chips I measured the voltages and they were OK. So I put the chips in and started the computer, which booted at first try.
But I think there's something weird with it, or at least, it behaves differently from what I've seen on a few youtube videos.
When I turn it on, with all switches down (except RUN which is in STOP position), I correctly see the two "banks" of LEDs lighting for a moment, and then the W0 LED lights for about 6 seconds, and after that M1 and MEMR light too and I can use the computer.
In some videos I saw, the LED that lights first is not W0 but INT, and it takes much less time before MEMR and M1 also go on and the computer is usable. Mine seems to have a sort of "slow boot".
Then, if I put RESET up, most of the LEDs light up, but they don't do so instantly, but a few at a time, over the course of a couple of seconds. Some lights sometimes stay off. And sometimes some of the lights "flicker" a bit, as if there was being some "action" there. It's not a cold solder joint because during "normal" operation the lights are rock solid.
And when I put RESET down again, then the computer behaves as if I just turned it on, with the W0 and then M1 and MEMR lights, only that W0 stays on for a longer time before M1 and MEMR also come up, sometimes even 13-15 seconds.
Also, is it normal that if AUX is up, then all the address and data LEDs flicker on for a moment everytime that I press EXAMINE or EXAMINE NEXT?
I tried toggling the test addition program, and it worked "some of the times" - i.e. with some input data. Using 1 and 2 as input data was OK, using 7 and 15 was not. But I can't be sure it wasn't user error, I have to experiment some more.
Does any of this make any sense to you?

Cristian