Front panel switches

Discuss the new Altair 8800 Micro

Front panel switches

Postby cappy2112 » Dec Wed 14, 2016 1:08 am

I've soldered my Micro Altair quite some time ago, but never got around to putting the chips in and getting it running.
Regarding the front panel switches- a flat washer with a locking tab, a lock washer, and a locknut come with each of the switches.

How are you using these on the Micro Altair?
The flat washer with the bent tab won't sit flat on the front panel, obviously. A regular flat washer won't fit, unless it has the
tab which fits into the slot on the switch thread shaft.
The lock washer needs a flat washer on top of it in order to be effective.
The locknut by itself might come loose if you use the switches a lot.

What to do to finish mounting the switches??

thanks
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Re: Front panel switches

Postby jac_goudsmit » Dec Wed 14, 2016 11:40 pm

My best guess is to leave the washer with the tab off, and put the lock washer and the nut on the outside. If there's not enough thread, just put the nut only, or leave that off too.

Those parts are really intended for when the switch is mounted onto a front panel and isn't attached to anything else; the washer with the tab can be used to keep the switch from rotating. But because the switches in this project are mounted on a circuit board, they're not going to go anywhere anyway, so you don't really need the hardware.

===Jac
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Re: Front panel switches

Postby inerlogic » Feb Tue 21, 2017 6:54 pm

you leave the washers/nuts/etc off and just leave the switches poking through the holes.
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Re: Front panel switches

Postby dhoelzer » Apr Sat 29, 2017 11:12 pm

Personally, I found that the switches poking through the holes without nuts on them looked really bad and, even though they are soldered down, the switches felt pretty "fragile" floating in the holes. Add to that the fragility of the bonding (hot glue?) of the standoffs to the front panel and it was a recipe for a mess.

I ended up removing the standoffs, removing the washers, removing the LEDs and then refitting the front panel with LEDs using lower nuts to level the front panel and the outer nuts to lock the face plate and front panel to one another properly. It looks *much* better and the switches no longer flex on the board when you try to flip them.
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